Probably in my next setup i will give a try but since i can move my screen, i think the result could be the same as with the aluminium track.
Thanks for your feedback ! I didn't think about the heat dissipation, is this the main issue causing dead LED ?
The big tv is about 5 inchs away from wall. Its more for aesthetics for me I suppose.Įdit: For reference the video of the mini setup is pushed up close to the wall. Not a big difference between having and not having. With the track, only one led went bad and it's been in service longer. And I've had to replace a handful of leds on that setup. On a side note, the aluminum track may help with the longevity of the leds (better heat dissipation) One tv I setup with Hyperion did not use aluminum track. And I like the look of a light tube over uncovered smd leds. But if your coming from the other room you see the angled tv back side. On the side that is far from the wall you obviously lose most of the reflective light. On the side very close to wall it diffuses the light. In both situations the cover has it's benefits. And depending which way I angle the tv, one side will be on the wall and the other side very far. The space from the wall is generally about 4-7 inch's. I don’t know the distance between the camera and TV sorry ! But if someone can do the same with a fisheye Capture, it could work !
Because we don’t have any software like trapezoid hyperion tool. Sorry I wanted to say : it’s not a good idea. $50USD is substantially cheaper the known-good working solution using $500+ worth of HDFury equipment.
Of course, there's time/effort involved in creating a tool, as those demos simply show how to draw bezier curves in a browser window. I'd even say that a user could straighten the 4 curves to simulate the trapzoid tool. Those bezier curves could be adjusted (by a human) to follow the warped edge of the TV. The center of each of the boxes could be plotted equidistant along the curve to represent the LED zones. I'd think a tool can be developed to use 4 bezier curves (one for each side of the TV) and another example getLUT() function. At this point, I think the fisheye could work (as long as hyperion is sampling the portion of the image within those little boxes) I agree with you that the trapezoid tool will not work. I think you are meaning to say "it is a bad" idea. I don't quite follow your comment due to the double negative. He solved it by using level shifter but I can’t help with that I’m a beginner. if you can test just you led without the Pi Cam si maybe it’s not your PSU or your led that are faulty.Īnd maybe you need a level shifter with the nodeMCU as you use apa102c right ? Just search in this forum you will see someone having flickering with nodemcu and apa102. I don’t know if you can use HSC with WiFi ? I use it with my RPi and Ethernet port. One thing I would like you to do is testing your setup just with a PC, NodeMCU and maybe the RPi but with Hyperion Screen Capture.
If 2 then 360p and so the CPU will be highly used maybe 80/100%. For example you Pi Cam is set on 720p, if size décimation if 8 it will use 90p. Maybe you need to fix the exposure/gain on your camera, try some search for settings Pi Cam on manual.Īnd sizedecimation is the factor the image is divided before used. Not pinkish flickering but intensity was bad like the camera could not grab the right color. Maybe your PSU is faulty ? But not sure because you know I tried Pi Cam as grabber like you but with WS2813.
You need to have your led cables as short as possible from your PSU and NodeMCU. How far is your led from the NodeMCU ? Because maybe if you use too long câble it can cause supply issue or data connection issue. When I set 80% white, this is flickering everywhere. When I set something like 80% red, this is a little bit stable. When I set an intensity 20%, this is more stable. So from what I see, more I put some intensity, more I have flickering.
I did some tests without hyperion, just with WLED. I changed the lib by this one that works with hyperion: